Kolumbia – pierwsze wrażenia
Witamy z nowego kontynentu, w nowym roku, w nowym rozdziale naszej przygody.
Pierwsze kroki w Ameryce Południowej stawiamy w Cartagenie. My przylecieliśmy z Panama City, a UMM przypłynął z Colon po jednodniowym rejsie. Niby razem, ale ciągle osobno, bo trzeba wydostać samochód z portu. Zajmuje to 2,5 dnia w piekącym słońcu. Głównie oczekiwanie i bieganie od okienka do okienka, niczym u Kafki. Nadmienię, że koszt tej przeprawy jest porównywalny z transferem do Kanady, ale tam przez siedem dni UMM przepłynął Atlantyk.
Nareszcie znowu razem i pierwszy nocleg spędzamy na plaży, na północ od Cartageny. W pobliżu parę domków rybaków, cisza i spokój. Kolejnego dnia udajemy się w stronę Barranquilla, miasta rodzimego znanej piosenkarki Shakiry. Jest upalnie, brudno, głośno i wszędzie pełno samochodów. Paskudnie. Już mi mina zrzedła, a to dopiero początek nowego kraju do odkrycia. Postanawiamy pojechać do Medellin, ale nie wybrzeżem. Po drodze udało nam się zwiedzić dom rodziny znanego kolumbijskiego pisarza, Gabriela Garcíi Márqueza. Malutka wioseczka, malutkie muzeum i wszędzie odnośniki do jego twórczości.
Mile zaskoczeni przypadkowym odkryciem kierujemy się nadal na południe. Zanim dotrzemy do Medellin musimy przeprawić się promem. Droga i most w budowie, a my po rzece meandrujemy sobie około godziny. Prom składa się z dwóch częsci – pływającej platformy z doczepioną barką, która ją pcha. Niby ok, ale na pierwszy rzut oka konstrukcja nie wzbudza zaufania. Ale udało się. Zanim dotrzemy do Medellin na parkingu stacji benzynowej spotykamy innych podróżników. Ale za to jakich! Taxi Latino. Oryginalna, argentyńska taksówka z 1931 roku, a w niej wnuk pana taksówkarza przemierza trasę z Argentyny na Alaskę. Ciekawostką jest, że mieszka już od parunastu lat w Portugalii. Po powrocie do Europy jesteśmy umówieni na kawę!
I jesteśmy w Medellin. Z czego znane jest/było Medellin w świecie? Z przestępczości, za sprawą kartelu narkotykowego Pablo Escobara. Ale to przeszłość. Dzisiejsze Medellin zaimponowało nam. Z reguły nie zapuszczamy się do większych miast (a to ma około dwóch milionów mieszkańców); w Ameryce Łacińskiej wszystkie duże aglomeracje były do siebie podobne, ale Medellin wyróżnia się na ich tle. Podczas zwiedania miasta z przewodnikiem dowiadujemy się szczegółów. Rzeczą, która spaja to miasto jest metro, jego cześć naziemna przypominająca kolejkę w połączeniu z częścią nadziemną, a dokładnie kolejką gondolową. Sprawia to, że mieszkańcy dzielnic położonych na zboczach, z reguły biedniejszych, przestali być wykluczeni. Miasto przeszło ogromną metamorfozę i jest jednym z najczęściej chwalonych i najbardziej inspirujących na świecie. Przykładem może być rynek, który nie zachęcał do spacerów i był raczej ciemną stroną miasta. Teraz jest to plac światła z 300 wysokimi na 24 metry słupami świetlnymi. Inny przykład to pałac sprawiedliwości, który miał być zburzony, ale przekształcono go w oryginalne centrum handlowe. Zabiegi te nadaje miejscom nową hisotrię, wolną od duchów przeszłości. W Medellin spotkaliśmy się także z Robertem, bratem naszego kolegi Sebastiana z pracy z budowy w Elblągu. Zaczął on swoją podróż na rowerze dwa lata temu w Ushuaia w Argentynie, a od roku wpadł w sidła Medellin.
Niedaleko Medellin znaleźliśmy fajną atrakcję dla UMM. Przejazd po dawnej drodze kolejowej z tunelami i jednym mostem kolejowym. Myślę, że zdjęcia i film oddadzą lepiej ducha tej przygody.
Kolejną atrakcją na naszej trasie jest Guatape. Malownicze miasteczko znane ze swoich zocalos, czyli cokołów. Jest co oglądać włócząc się po uliczkach, zwaszcza samej.
Zaskoczeniem jest dla nas system bramek na kolumbijskich drogach. Trzeba płacić za przejazd i okazuje się pod koniec dnia, że to niemała suma. Z racji tego, jak i z racji o niebo lepszych walorów krajobrazowych, decydujemy się unikać tych płatnych. Kolumbia to kraj zdecydowanie górzysty i trochę nas to spowalnia, bo średnia prędkość przejazdu wychodzi 25 km/h, a my po takim dniu jesteśmy jak martini Jamesa Bonda – wstrząśnieci, ale nie zmieszani. UMM to inna historia – wstrząśnięty, zmieszany z błotem, zadrapany, lekko nadwyrężony, ale znosi trudy przejazdu z pokorą. Pewnie do czasu.
I wyjazd z Guatape był jednym z takich dni, że witki opadają. Zaplanowane mieliśmy około 150 km, czyli cały dzień jazdy. GPS podaje trzy trasy – wybieramy środkową, wydaje się optymalną. Pogoda sprzyja, widoki przednienie, jedziemy zboczem łańcucha górskiego, wokół same doliny, czasami zdarzy się jakaś chałupka. Droga leśna, bagienno trawiasta. Po dwóch godzinach nasza ścieżka samochodowa zmienia się w scieżkę ludzką zupełnie nieprzejezdną dla nas. Trzeba zawrócić. Decydujemy się na pierwszą propozycję GPS. Wracamy prawie do Guatape, skręcamy i po paru kilometrach trafiamy na roboty drogowe – koparka ładuje wywrotkę tarasując przejazd. Czekamy prawie cierpliwie. Załadowany samochód odjeżdża, my przejeżdżamy a tam … kolejna blokada i tym razem mamy nakaz zawrócenia. Przejeżdżamy tuż przed zderzakiem kolejnej wywrotki szykującej się do załadunku. W UMM panuje grobowa cisza, pozostaje ostatnia trasa, trochę na około. Wyjścia nie mamy. Minęło już pół dnia a my ciągle w punkcie wyjścia. Po paru kilometrach pytamy się lokalsów, czy dojedziemy do naszego celu tą drogą. Dojedziecie, ale to strasznie daleko! Jedną z zasad bezpieczeństwa jest unikanie podróżowania po zmroku, czyli już w okolicach 18:00. A my po drodze gruntowej, kamienistej, wyboistej, po ciemku jedziemy w nieznane. Podróżowanie nie zawsze ma tylko jasne strony.
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