Ekwador
Nieubłagalnie zbliżamy się do równika, świadczy o tym chociażby nazwa kolejnego odwiedzonego państwa (Ecuador to po hiszpańsku równik). Na równiku raz już byliśmy, w Afryce, a dokładnie na wyspie Rolas należącej do Wysp Świętego Tomasza i Książęcej. Teraz czas na równik w Ameryce. Zanim jednak dojechaliśmy do szerokości geograficznej 0°, mieliśmy fajną zabawę z kolejką. Żelazne drogi nie należą do popularnych w tej części świata. Najcześciej to pozostałości po wszelakich kopalniach.
Odwiedzamy równik w mniej turystycznym miejscu niż Mitad del Mundo (środek świata), ale za to z oryginalną teorią. Co byście powiedzieli na przekręcenie znanych nam map o 90° w lewo, żeby na środku obrazka znalazł się równik? Zniknie podział na tych na górze i na dole, będą tylko na lewo i na prawo? Mnie osobiście nie przekonał ten podział, ale chętnie słuchałam wyjaśnienień. Podobał mi się za to globus z tą wersją mapy, ale zdecydowanie był za drogi. Więcej szczegółów o tym projekcie jest tutaj, w wersji angielskiej.
Aktualnie w Ekwadorze panuje końcówka pory deszczowej. Jest wilgotno, mgliście, angielsko. Trudno, wymówek nie ma, eksplorujemy! Brak kalendarzowych zdjęć (ale te można bez trudu odnaleźć w internecie), ale przeżycia pozostaną. Lodowiec na czubku wulkanu Antisana widzimy tylko w chmurach. Za to, zatrzymując się na noc na kwaterze, możemy podziwiać kolibry wprost z kanapy w restauracji, a przez lornetkę kondory w kanionie. Właściciel był tak miły, że zostawił nam klucze do restauracji i całą posiadłość do dyspozycji. Miło było posiedziedzieć przy kominku, w dodatku z takimi widokami. Chyba wzbudzamy zaufanie w ludziach.
Liczymy na więcej szczęścia na wulkanie Cotopaxi. Na zdjęciach wygląda obłędnie, idealny stożek. Niestety, dla nas był zasłonięty przez chmury. Za to obozowaliśmy pod nim, na wysokości ok 3800 m n.p.m. Było zimno, mgliście, ale i bezludnie. Cisza i spokój. Marzena spała jak dziecko. Sergio skarżył się na dzikie konie. W nocy skryły się, podobnie do nas, u wejścia do malutkiego kanionu. Podobno głośno mlaskają. Poranna kawa była wyzwaniem. Na tej wysokości woda nie wrze w temperaturze 100C tylko znacznie poniżej. Ale krajobraz rekompensuje wszystko. UMM wjechaliśmy na wysokość około 4500 m n.p.m licząc na poprawę widoczności. Potwierdzamy, chmury mają podobne właściwości bez względu na wysokość – zasłaniają całą okolicę. Cotopaxi bez chmur wygląda TAK.
Nie wiem kto ma wpływ na fakt, że włóczymy się głównie po górach 🙂 Andy, wulkany, kratery. Magia gór. Działa na mnie jak magnes, więc będzie zdecydowanie więcej relacji wysokościowych.
Zaparkowaliśmy na samej krawędzi krateru Quilotoa. Było co podziwiać z okna.
Nie bacząc na warunki atmosferyczne decydujemy się na kolejną górę, a właściwie kolejny wulkan. Chimbarazo, najwyższy szczyt Ewkadoru, uznawany również za najbardziej odległy od środka Ziemi (bardziej niż Mt. Everest). Powoduje to fakt, że tereny położone na równiku są najdalej położone od środka Ziemi. Nam to nie przeszkadza, co więcej, motywuje do osiągnięcia kolejnej wysokości. Udało się, mamy 5000 m n.p.m zdobyte! A TAK wygląda Chimbarazo bez chmur.
W Ekwadorze bardzo nam się podoba. Nie bez znaczenia jest fakt, że galon oleju napędowego kosztuje 1,037$, identycznie na każdej stacji (w przeliczeniu około 1PLN/litr). Jedzenie na mieście też jest korzystne zarówno dla portfela, jak i poprawy naszych kształtów. Obiad w barze kosztuje około 2,5$, zupa z wkładką, drugie danie i napój. Podoba nam się to bardzo, bardzo.
Kolejną atrakcją na naszej drodze jest Park Narodowy Cajas. Jest to najbardziej wilgotne miejsce jak do tej pory. Woda z nieba, woda pod butami, wszystko w tym miejscu płynie, przelewa się, chlupocze. Uroczo. Czy tak wygląda Szkocja? takie są moje wyobrażenia! Zobaczcie sami.
Granicę ekwadorsko-peruwiańską już prawie widać na horyzoncie. Zatrzymujemy się na nocleg w Parku Narodowym Podocarpus. Spacer po lesie deszczowym był czystą przyjemnością. Tylu odcieni zieleni naraz nie sposób przyswoić, a wszystkie rośliny kuszą wzrok kształtem, teksturą, kreatywnością miejsca wzrostu. Wyobrazić sobie tylko można jak to wygląda w momencie kwitnienia. Podczas naszego pobytu tylko jeden gatunek storczyka był ukwiecony.
Na zakończenie naszego pobytu w Ekwadorze, na drodze, około 3 km od granicy, wydarzenie znane tylko z filmów naukowych. Reszta wpisu i zdjęcia dla osób o mocnych nerwach.
Tarantule na drodze spotykaliśmy już w Stanach Zjednoczonych, nic nowego. Ale tutaj odbył się inny spektakl, a my byliśmy widownią. Osa (niestety nie znam polskiego odpowiednika) sparaliżowała pająka. Tak, tak, oba osobniki prawie tago samego rozmiaru, a walka dosłownie na śmierć i życie. Tym razem (i zazwyczaj) ofiarą jest stawonóg. Całkiem żywy, tylko sparaliżowany został zawleczony przez napastniczkę (tak, tak – rodzaju żenskiego) to jamki w ziemi. Tam zostanie uwięziony jako pokarm dla potomka osy, która ona złoży w jego ciele. Młoda osa będzie rosnać żywiać się wciaż żywym pająkiem. Natura w pełnej krasie, na wiejskiej, pylistej drodze.
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