Gwatemala – serce świata Majów
Witamy w Gwatemalii, świat Majów z najbardziej znanymi ruinami w Tikal. My ich jednak nie zwiedziliśmy, bo to pułapka turystyczna – wypłukuje kieszenie do dna. Widzieliśmy inne ruiny i postanowiliśmy poszukać jakiegoś nowego doświadczenia. Przejeżdżamy prawie pustymi drogami z północy na południe. Widzimy ludzi w chatkach z dachem z liści palmy, bananowca. Biednie już na pierwszy rzut oka. Głównie ludność endemiczna, Majowie i inne plemiona. Mijamy plantacje kawy. Gwatemala znajduje się w dziesiątce państw ekportujących najwięcej kawy. Droga niespodziewanie się urywa i musimy skorzystać z promu. Poziom wody jest niski, więc pojazdy na promie na wezwanie obsługi balansują to w przód, to w tył. Nowe doświadczenie.
Naszym celem jest Semuc Champey, czyli w tłumaczeniu miejsce, gdzie woda chowa się wśród skał. Na bazę wybieramy El Retiro Lodge w Lanquin, gdzie rozkładamy się na parkingu i mamy dostęp do baru nad rzeką, hamaków, nawet posiłki przygotowują. Sergio rozleniwia się do końca, a Marzena pracuje nad blogiem.
Do jeziorek wybieramy się colectivo, czyli pickupem, lokalnym środkiem transportu osób na pace. Na pierwszy ogień idzie jaskinia zalana wodą. Zwiedzamy ze świeczką w jednym ręku i liną, łańcuchem w drugim, czasem też płynąc, bo gruntu brak. Następnie wdrapaliśmy się na punkt widokowy i z góry obserwowaliśmy cały przełom rzeki, by na zakończenie zanurzyć się w przyjemnie chłodnej wodzie.
Gwatemala to górzysty kraj z największą liczbą wulkanów w regionie. Jest ich aż 37 i niektóre są aktywne. Nie wypada nie skorzystać z okazji i nie wdrapać się na jakiś. Jedziemy do miejscowości Antigua, która była stolicą Gwatemalii do 1776 roku. Dlaczego przestała być? Dwa trzesienia ziemi wywołane działalnością wulkaniczną zniszczyły ją doszczętnie. Widzieliśmy skutki tego. W mieście jest niezliczona liczba ruin budynków sakralnych.
Antigua jest otoczona przez trzy wulkany – Volcán de Agua Wulkan Wody, Volcán de Fuego Wulkan Ognia i wulkan Acatenango. Wulkan Ognia jest aktywny i kłęby dymu są widoczne z miasteczka. Żeby mieć jednak lepszy widok, należy wspiąć się na bliźniaczy wulkan Acatenango (nieaktywny). Wspieliśmy się więc, pięć długich godzin. Ale wrażenia rekompensują ten trud.
Na wysokości prawie 4000 m można poczuć się … bosko. Gdy zrobio się ciemno i chmury się rozeszły u stóp mieliśmy tyciutkie światełka wsi, miasteczek. Za rogiem Fuego dymił, mruczał i co jakiś czas bawił się w pokaz fajerwerków z rozżarzonych kamieni ze swojego wnętrza. Siedząc na górze, gdzie tylko wiatr świszczał, ognisko skwierczało, gdzie żadne ludzkie dzwięki nie docierały można poczuć się zarówno wszechmogącym, jak i obezwładnionym przez naturę. Sprzeczne uczucia, ale czas był magiczny.
Zakwasy po wycieczce były jak najbardziej przyziemne. Odpocząć postanowiliśmy nad jeziorem Atitlan, które otoczone jest przez trzy kolejne wulkany. W Gwatemalii ciężko nie spotkać wulkanu. I choć widoki ze szczytu wulkany byłyby niesamowite (jezioro uważane jest za jedno z najpiękniejszych na świecie), my cieszyliśmy się widokami z brzegu.
W Gwatemalii zaobserowaliśmy, że mieszkańcy ubierają się często w stroje tradycyjne, czasami właściwe dla danego regionu, a bardziej do danego plemienia. Jednym z miejsc, gdzie można zaobserować folklor, jest dzień targowy w miejscowości Chichicastenango. Targowy jest czwartek i niedziela. Jest to ważny ośrodek kultury Majów, a dokładniej ludności Kicze. My przyjechaliśmy już w sobotę. Wieczorem ulice miasteczka oprócz starganów zapełniły się muzyką i tańcami. Była scena i zespół i cały rynek tańczących. W kolejnej uliczce orkiestra na cieżarówce, głośniki na innej, soliści gdzieś kręcą się w pobliżu, a ulica poprzebierana tańczy. To chyba jest główna charakterystyka Ameryki Łacińskiej – bawią się zawsze i wszędzie. Bez względu na okoliczności. A życie większości z nich nie rozpieszcza. Następnego dnia rano nie było śladu po zabawie, po scenie, po orkiestrze. Wszędzie były już tylko stragany. Normalny dzień targowy.
W Chichicastenango odkryliśmy coś niesamowitego. Cmentarze i podjeście do świata zmarłych w Ameryce Łacińskiej ma inny wymiar niż w Europie, a na pewno niż w Polsce. Cmentarz w Chicicastenango jest … kolorowy. Położony na wzgórzu z widokiem na szare, betonowe miasto. Kontrast, któy można dostrzec od razu. Spacerowaliśmy alejkami w ciszy tego miejsca, zdala od zgiełku targowiska. Towarzyszyły nam mieszkające tam psy.
Kierujemy się w stronę Hondurasu.
2018-12-31 @ 17:32
Czy w tych zakamarkach znajdzie Was rok nowy, 2019? Żeby się nie zgubił biedaczek. Jak Was znajdzie (albo Wy jego), niech przyniesie Wam dużo dobrego, radości, wrażeń, ekscytacji. Pozdrawiam jeszcze w starym, tzn 2018 🙂
2018-12-31 @ 18:23
Ludwiko, dziękujemy pieknie za życzenia i pamieć! Wszystkiego tylko najlepszego w nowym roku. Mam nadzieję, że w nowy rok odnajdziemy również w Polsce. Przesyłamy gorące uściski ze słonecznej Panamy.
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2019-11-06 @ 17:19
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