Honduras-Nikaragua
Do Hondurasu wjeżdżamy od północy, od strony Morza Karaibskiego. Pogoda niestety nie jest plażowa. Pada deszcz i wieje silny wiatr. Morze ma kolor brunatny, a nie lazurowy, za sprawą przepełnionych rzek spływających z pobliskch wzgórz. Kierujemy się w stronę San Pedro Sula na spotkanie z naszym znajomym, jeszcze z czasów pracy w Polsce. Już podczas wyprawy dowiedzieliśmy się, że aktualnie jest na kontrakcie w Hondurasie. Jedziemy więc w odwiedziny.
San Pedro Sula, drugie co do wielkości miasto po stolicy Tegucigalpa, jest głównie znane ze swojej ciemnej strony. To jedno z najniebezpieczniejszych miast na świecie, ale my byliśmy pod opieką p. Aleixo i nic nam nie groziło. Spędziliśmy wieczór na wspominaniu zabawnych sytuacji z wcześniejszych kontraktów. To był naprawdę bardzo fajnie spędzony czas. Następnego dnia odwiedziliśmy lokalny rynek i pojechaliśmy nad największe jezioro w Hondurasie. Jeszcze raz bardzo dziękujemy za gościnnę i opiekę nad nami.
Jezioro Yojoa znane jest z niesamowitej przyrody. Nas niestety deszcz nie opuszczał i po dwóch dniach barowej pogody spędzonej rozmowie z innymi podróżnikami, obserwowaniu kolibrów, smakwaniu piwa z lokalnego mikrobrowaru, ruszyliśmy w stronę Nikaragui. Po drodze zajechaliśmy do stolicy, bo Dominika C. chciała widokówkę ze swojej ulubionej stolicy. Dominika – niestety nie dało się. Ani widokówek, ani poczty.
Zamieszki w Nikaragui trwają od kwietnia. Protesty w odpowiedzi na ogłoszone przez zakład ubezpieczeń społecznych zwiększenie składek pracowników, pracodawców oraz emerytów uległy eskalacji i trwają do dziś. Niestabilna sytuacja nie sprzyja turystyce; dużo hoteli, restauracji jest zamkniętych. Zbieraliśmy aktualne informację od innych podróżników, a że nie ma innej drogi na południe kontynentu, ruszyliśmy naprzód. Nikaragua przyjemnie nas zaskoczyła. Co więcej, Marzena uważa, że jest to jedno z jej ulubionych państw jak do tej pory. Jako pierwsze miejsce odwiedziliśmy Leon, żeby zebrać zapasy na wulkan Telica.
Piękne, kolonialne miasteczko z największą katedrą w całej Ameryce Środkowej. Posiada ona pięć naw podtrzymywanych przez 24 filary, około 100 m długości oraz 45 m szerokości. Widok z katedry jest imponujący; nieważne w którą stronę się spojrzy, widać na horyzoncie wulkany. Wulkany nowa pasja Marzeny. Skoro mowa o wulkanach, to postanowliśmy spędzić noc na jednym z nich.
UMM mogliśmy wjechać w pobliże krateru. Do wdrapania się mieliśmy jeszcze około 40 minut. To nic w porównaniu z Acatenangą w Gwatemalii, gdzie było 5 godzin. Zaczeliśmy po południu, żeby zobaczyć zachód słońca. Telica strasznie dymiła i wchodzliśmy w oparach siarki. Krater jest dość głęboki, ale udało się zobaczyć momentami lawę, zwlaszcza jak zrobiło się już ciemno. Po zejściu okazało się, że noc spędzimy w towarzystwie pary podróżników z Australii. Oni przemierzają bezdroża świata już od 20 lat i jest to ich 5 samochód. Długa droga przed nami.
Następny przystanek to Granada, kolejne kolonialne miasteczko. Granada i Leon konkurowały o pozycję stolicy kraju, ale ostatecznie wybrano Managuę, jako kompromisowe rozwiązanie. Granada zachwyca kolorami, można spacerować uliczkami i podziwiać małe pastelowe domki. W ciągu dnia upał jest nieznośny, już około 10ej robi się za ciepło na specerowanie, więc trzeba schować się w cieniu i sączyć zimne napoje, tym razem naturalne soki. Udało nam się również zwiedzić fabrykę cygar. Niestety przez brak turystów, nie produkują ich aktualnie. Cały kraj tkwi w oczekiwaniu na powrót do normalności.
W okolicach Granady jest jeden z nielicznych wulkanów na świecie, w kraterze którego widać wrzącą lawę. Nie może nas ominąć wulkan Masaya. Wybieramy wieczorne zwiedzanie, choć jest droższe (10USD za osobę), ale warto. Zwłaszcza, że turystów nie jest za dużo i można spędzić przy kraterze dużo czasu (wcześniej tylko około 15 min). Pod sam krater można wjechać asfaltową drogą. Czekając na wieczorne zwiedzanie, cały ranek i południe spędzany przy jeziorze Apoyo, wulkanicznym też, bo w kraterze. Wszystko kręci się wokół wulkanów. Możemy nawet popływać kajakiem po jeziorze, ale porwisty wiatr nie zachęca. Orzeźwiamy się zimnym piwem, delektujemy rajskimi widokami i wymieniamy doświadczenia z nowopoznanymi Annie i Mikey z Wielkiej Brytanii.
Zbliżają się Święta i mamy zaproszenie od innej podróżniczki na wspólne spędzenie ich w Kostaryce. Opuszczamy Nicaraguę 23 grudnia. Marzena czuje niedosyt i liczy, że to nie ostatnie spotkanie z tym krajem.
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