Kolumbia – miłość od trzeciego wejrzenia
Uwaga:
Dalsze czytanie poniższego tekstu może prowadzić do niezaplanowanych wydatków w postaci wyprawy do Kolumbii. UMMaventura nie ponosi odpowiedzialności za to. Każdy czyta na własne ryzyko 🙂
Z UMM świeżo po przeglądzie i dopieszczeniu udajemy się w dalsze kolumbiańskie ostępy. Nic nam nie straszne!
Z Bogoty udajemy się na wschód, w kierunku, a jakże, wulkanu! Nevado del Ruiz, Uśpiony Lew, winowajca jednej z najtragiczniejszych katastrof w XX wieku. Zmierzamy w jego stronę prawie nie spotykając nikogo na drodze. Oczywiście przejazd zajmuje nam więcej czasu niż przypuszczaliśmy i na noc zostajemy na wysokości 4000m n.p.m. Rano o wschodzie słońca możemy podziwać go w całej okazałości, łącznie z lodowcem na samym szczycie. Udaje się nawet sfotografować puszczony dymek, zanim chmury przykryją go na dalszą cześć dnia. Nadmienię, że była to jedna z najzimniejszych naszych nocy. Nasze kocyki od Diane nie wystarczyły do ogrzania nas, ale przynajmniej nie zamarzliśmy. Zakup dodatkowych został wpisay do budżetu wyprawy. Rano mineła nas wycieczka studentów z pobliskiego Manizales.
Trzymając się nadal postanowienia korzystania z bezpłatnych dróg, przejeżdżamy jedną z najpiękniejszych tras jak do tej pory. Na noc zatrzymujemy się w zagajniku świerkowym. Rozpalamy nawet ognisko, pierwsze od miesięcy. Ale łatwo nie było. Wokół pełno drewna, tylko wilgotnego. Dymimy na całą okolicę, ale oprócz nas nikogo chyba nie było w pobliżu.
Trochę wyziębieni decydujemy przenieść się w cieplejsze rejony, a dokładnie na pustynię Tatacoa. Uff jak gorąco! Nam to jednak nie dogodzisz 🙂 Wytrzymujemy tylko jeden dzień i noc. Jednak coś bardziej daje się we znaki niż upał – malutkie muszki, komary, owady. Chcą nas zjeść żywcem. Wspomnia black flies z Kanady powracają. Jesteśmy pełni współczucia dla pasących się w okolicy krów. Serio.
Z czego słynie Kolumbia? Kto wie? Z kawy! Jest trzecim eksportem na świecie (po Brazylii i Wietnamie). Nie możemy wyjechać bez odwiedzenia kawowego regionu. Jedziemy do San Agustin, żeby nauczyć się czegoś o kawie. Umawiamy się z Olivią z Coffee Mujer na szkolenie. Zajwiamy się o 8 rano (jak w szkole) i idziemy na plantację. Zapoznajemy się z kawowcem, zrywamy dojrzałe jagody, słuchamy opowieści Hectora i Jose Edwardo. Okazuje się, że kawowiec to drzewo a nie krzak, jednak dla wygody zbioru nie pozwala mu się urosnać. Wracamy do domu Olivii. Ta rodzina produkuje kawę organiczną, metodą tradycyjną. Na patio gospodyni prezentuje nam metody wyłuskania ziarna z owocu – kiedyś na kamieniu, następnie w czymś w postaci maszynki do mielenia mięsa – z jednej strony wychodzą ziarna, a z drugiej łupinki. Dodam, że owoc zerwany z krzaczka jest słodki. Następnie moczy się ziarna w wodzie, żeby pozbyć się resztek owocu. Jednocześnie jest to test jakości kawy. Pływające ziarna są wybierane, są drugiej kategorii. Niemniej koncerny kupują je i mieszają z innymi. Następnie ziarna się suszy. Kolejny punkt to wyłuskanie wysuszonych ziarenek z przeźroczystej błony prez ubijanie i przesiewanie. To poważne zajęcie przypadło Sergio. Gdy uzyskaliśmy już same czyste ziarna, można zacząć prażyć, nie zapominając o ciągłym mieszaniu. Ziarna muszą się zarumienić idealnie z każdej strony. A potem już tylko wystudzenie i można paczkować. Braliśmy udział w całym procesie, co więcej, sami zapakowaliśmy i zakupiliśmy własnoręcznie przygotowane ziarna. Po powrocie zapraszamy na kawę!
Wszystko co dobre, szybko się kończy jednak. Zanim przekroczymy granicę z Ekwadorem odwiedzamy Bazylikę Las Lajas, która jest jednym z najczęściej odwiedzanych miejsc pielgrzymkowych w Ameryce Południowej. Robi wrażenie, zwłaszcza po zmroku.
Po ponad miesiącu żegnamy się z Kolumbią. Jest to jedno z naszych naj, naj wyprawy. Czuliśmy się tutaj jak w domu, a Kolumbijczycy to jeden z najbardziej serdecznych narodowów z jakim do tej pory się spotkaliśmy. Nie wspominając o naturze! A nie wszystko przecież widzieliśmy. Do zobaczenia Kolumbio!!!
2019-03-02 @ 18:28
Jak czytałam, to zimno mi sie zrobiło, ale watek kawowy rozgrzał 🙂 Dzieki za cudne zdjęcia 🙂 Marzenko pozdrowienia od ULI W. ( o ile ja pamietasz) nie chce tu pisac bliższych danych. Pozdrawiam Ciebie i Osoby towarzyszące 🙂 🙂
2019-03-03 @ 16:29
Ja się cieszę, że nas czytasz! Oczywiście pamiętam Ulę i pozdrawiam również! W przygotowaniu kolejny post o Ekwadorze, bo my już prawie u bram Peru. Buziaki
2019-03-06 @ 14:41
Jak to z czego słynie Kolumbia? Oj Mazia! Narcos i narkotyki !!! próbowaliście ? 😉
2019-03-08 @ 15:47
Jeszcze nie widziałam, ale nadrobię 🙂 Koki nie próbowaliśmy jeszcze. Nie widzieliśmy/ nie rozpoznaliśmy żadnego pola uprawnego. W Peru koka jest legalna i w sprzedaży. Widzimy ludzi, głównie w górach, żujących liście. Może się skusimy spróbować. Podobno żucie pomaga w chorobie wysokościowej – tylko jak na razie 5000 m było bez problemów. A i mówimy o koce (liściach koki), a nie kokainie 🙂
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2019-12-15 @ 07:20
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