Bogactwo Jukatanu
Jesteśmy w królestwie Majów, a w sumie tylko u jego bram, bo rozciąga się na cały Jukatan, meksykański stan Chiapas, Belize, Gwatemalę a nawet Honduras. Ale na wszystko jeszcze przyjdzie czas. Na pierwszy kontakt z tą rozwiniętą cywilizacją wybieramy miejsce archeologiczne w Palenque. Zanim jednak tam dotarliśmy, poznaliśmy w korku przemiłego mieszkańca Jukatanu z rodziną. W ciągu krótkiej chwili zostaliśmy obdarowani owocem kakao, którego w takiej postaci jeszcze nie jedliśmy, lokalnymi storczykami i nawet figurką sowy wykonaną z jadeitu, zielonego minerału, który ma ogromne znaczenie dla Majów. Było nam bardzo miło.
Ruiny zostały odkryte w 1746 roku, a największy rozkwit miasta przypadał na okres od połowy VII do końca VIII wieku za panowania króla Pakala Wielkiego (płyta z jego grobowca jest na paru zdjęciach powyżej) i jego syna. Więcej o historii tego miejsca można poczytać np tutaj. My zaczeliśmy zwiedzanie od wizyty w muzeum tuż po jego otwarciu (byliśmy pierwsi), a potem przechadzaliśmy się pomiędzy piramidami, wspinaliśmy się na nie i podsłuchując innych przewodników wycieczek podziwialiśmy widoki 🙂 Okazało się, że jeden z nich nawet znał parę zwrotów w języku polskim; również jego legitymacja przewodnika wisiała na “smyczy” z napisem Polska. Na schodach jednej z budowli poznaliśmy – Asię i Michała, podróżników z plecakami, którzy swoją przygodę zaczeli od Ameryki Południowej. Wieczorem również razem zwiedziliśmy mniej historyczną część Palenque.
Następnie udaliśmy się do Campeche. Sergio miał już dosyć pobytu w dżungli i zatęsknił za szumem morzem.
Campeche jest uroczym miasteczkiem, którego stara zabudowa otoczona jest murem. Fasady domów o pastelowych kolorach dodają tylko malowniczości sennym w ciągu dnia uliczkom (uff jak gorąco). W ciągu dnia snuliśmy się w cieniu zwiedzając np. odrestaurowaną haciendę przy rynku, a wieczorem wybraliśmy się na pokaz mulimedialny.
W nocy ulice zapełniają się turystami, a mieszkańcy, jak gdyby nigdy nic, prezentują co oznacza termin latynos.
Jakie było nasze zdziwinie, gdy w hostelu w Campeche spotkaliśmy się ponownie z … Asią i Michałem. Tym razem, razem udaliśmy się na kilkudniowe leniuchowanie pod palmą w Celestun.
Wakacje pod palmą popsuła nam pogoda. Strugi deszczu nam zbytnio nie przeszkadzały, ale gwałtowny wiatr, co szarpał cały namiot w różne strony był już zagrożeniem. Po nieprzespanej nocy (nie rozumiem jak niemowlaki mogą zasypiać w huśtającym się wózku) i po obejrzeniu bilansu strat, okazało się, że wywiało nam tylko jedną karimatę – Sergia 🙂 Pora zamienić Zatokę Meksykańską na przyjaźniejsze Morze Karaibskie. Po drodze do Valladolid, gdzie tym razem mieliśmy umówione spotkanie z Asią i Michałem, wpadliśmy na moment do Chichen Itza.
Jest uważana za jedno z największych miast Majów. Faktycznie robi wrażenie, zwłaszcza najbardziej znana piramida schodkowa El Castillo (zamek) na samym środku placu. Budowla swoją strukturą, ilością schodów, a nawet cieniem rzucanym przez narożnik odwołuje się do bogatej wiedzy astronomicznej Majów i ich kalendarza. Ale mnie zafascynowało inne miejsce – boisko do rytualnej gry w piłkę – Ullamaliztli. Okręg, przez który przerzuca się piłkę, jest na wysokości 4 m. Wynik gry czasami przesądzał o życiu lub śmierci zawodników.
Majowie nadal mieszkają na Jukatanie. Może nie tworzą już takich malowniczych państw-miast jak zwiedzone przez nas ich ruiny (my zwiedziliśmy tylko dwa stanowiska archeologiczne, ale jest ich dużo, dużo więcej). Utrzymują się głównie z rolnictwa, hodowli i rzemiosła.
W Valladolid zatrzymalismy się w Xkopek. Jest to miejsce pokazowe produkcji miodu w tradycyjny, majański sposób. Nazwa miejsca odnosi się bezpośrednio do suchej cenoty gdzie jest zlokalizowany ten kamping. Cenoty, czyli rodzaj studni utworzonej w skale wapiennej, są istotną częścią kultury Majów. Nie tylko jako źródła wody (małe opady, brak rzek) ale także jako miejsca kultu, przyjście do innego świata. Do cenoty w Chichen Itza pielgrzymowano również po konkwiście hiszpańskiej.
My również, wspólnie z Asią i Michałem, odwiedzilismy kilka w obrębie Valladolid.
I na tym zakończylismy naszą czterdziestodniową podróż przez Meksyk. Następny wpis już z Belize.
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2019-11-26 @ 10:45
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2019-12-01 @ 12:47
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2019-12-02 @ 04:01
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