Jesteśmy w królestwie Majów, a w sumie tylko u jego bram, bo rozciąga się na cały Jukatan, meksykański stan Chiapas, Belize, Gwatemalę a nawet Honduras. Ale na wszystko jeszcze przyjdzie czas. Na pierwszy kontakt z tą rozwiniętą cywilizacją wybieramy miejsce archeologiczne w Palenque. Zanim jednak tam dotarliśmy, poznaliśmy w korku przemiłego mieszkańca Jukatanu z rodziną. W ciągu krótkiej chwili zostaliśmy obdarowani owocem kakao, którego w takiej postaci jeszcze nie jedliśmy, lokalnymi storczykami i nawet figurką sowy wykonaną z jadeitu, zielonego minerału, który ma ogromne znaczenie dla Majów. Było nam bardzo miło.
Ruiny zostały odkryte w 1746 roku, a największy rozkwit miasta przypadał na okres od połowy VII do końca VIII wieku za panowania króla Pakala Wielkiego (płyta z jego grobowca jest na paru zdjęciach powyżej) i jego syna. Więcej o historii tego miejsca można poczytać np tutaj. My zaczeliśmy zwiedzanie od wizyty w muzeum tuż po jego otwarciu (byliśmy pierwsi), a potem przechadzaliśmy się pomiędzy piramidami, wspinaliśmy się na nie i podsłuchując innych przewodników wycieczek podziwialiśmy widoki 🙂 Okazało się, że jeden z nich nawet znał parę zwrotów w języku polskim; również jego legitymacja przewodnika wisiała na “smyczy” z napisem Polska. Na schodach jednej z budowli poznaliśmy – Asię i Michała, podróżników z plecakami, którzy swoją przygodę zaczeli od Ameryki Południowej. Wieczorem również razem zwiedziliśmy mniej historyczną część Palenque.
Następnie udaliśmy się do Campeche. Sergio miał już dosyć pobytu w dżungli i zatęsknił za szumem morzem.
Campeche jest uroczym miasteczkiem, którego stara zabudowa otoczona jest murem. Fasady domów o pastelowych kolorach dodają tylko malowniczości sennym w ciągu dnia uliczkom (uff jak gorąco). W ciągu dnia snuliśmy się w cieniu zwiedzając np. odrestaurowaną haciendę przy rynku, a wieczorem wybraliśmy się na pokaz mulimedialny.
W nocy ulice zapełniają się turystami, a mieszkańcy, jak gdyby nigdy nic, prezentują co oznacza termin latynos.
Jakie było nasze zdziwinie, gdy w hostelu w Campeche spotkaliśmy się ponownie z … Asią i Michałem. Tym razem, razem udaliśmy się na kilkudniowe leniuchowanie pod palmą w Celestun.
Wakacje pod palmą popsuła nam pogoda. Strugi deszczu nam zbytnio nie przeszkadzały, ale gwałtowny wiatr, co szarpał cały namiot w różne strony był już zagrożeniem. Po nieprzespanej nocy (nie rozumiem jak niemowlaki mogą zasypiać w huśtającym się wózku) i po obejrzeniu bilansu strat, okazało się, że wywiało nam tylko jedną karimatę – Sergia 🙂 Pora zamienić Zatokę Meksykańską na przyjaźniejsze Morze Karaibskie. Po drodze do Valladolid, gdzie tym razem mieliśmy umówione spotkanie z Asią i Michałem, wpadliśmy na moment do Chichen Itza.
Jest uważana za jedno z największych miast Majów. Faktycznie robi wrażenie, zwłaszcza najbardziej znana piramida schodkowa El Castillo (zamek) na samym środku placu. Budowla swoją strukturą, ilością schodów, a nawet cieniem rzucanym przez narożnik odwołuje się do bogatej wiedzy astronomicznej Majów i ich kalendarza. Ale mnie zafascynowało inne miejsce – boisko do rytualnej gry w piłkę – Ullamaliztli. Okręg, przez który przerzuca się piłkę, jest na wysokości 4 m. Wynik gry czasami przesądzał o życiu lub śmierci zawodników.
Majowie nadal mieszkają na Jukatanie. Może nie tworzą już takich malowniczych państw-miast jak zwiedzone przez nas ich ruiny (my zwiedziliśmy tylko dwa stanowiska archeologiczne, ale jest ich dużo, dużo więcej). Utrzymują się głównie z rolnictwa, hodowli i rzemiosła.
W Valladolid zatrzymalismy się w Xkopek. Jest to miejsce pokazowe produkcji miodu w tradycyjny, majański sposób. Nazwa miejsca odnosi się bezpośrednio do suchej cenoty gdzie jest zlokalizowany ten kamping. Cenoty, czyli rodzaj studni utworzonej w skale wapiennej, są istotną częścią kultury Majów. Nie tylko jako źródła wody (małe opady, brak rzek) ale także jako miejsca kultu, przyjście do innego świata. Do cenoty w Chichen Itza pielgrzymowano również po konkwiście hiszpańskiej.
My również, wspólnie z Asią i Michałem, odwiedzilismy kilka w obrębie Valladolid.
I na tym zakończylismy naszą czterdziestodniową podróż przez Meksyk. Następny wpis już z Belize.
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Ainsi, pour se prémunir des maux liés au mauvais œil ou à la sorcellerie, il convient régulièrement de lire le Coran et faire des invocations notamment celles du matin et du coucher, de réciter régulièrement la sourate « La vache », de renouveler son intention, de placer la certitude dans son cœur, d’effectuer ses prières etc., et surtout de demander à Allah la meilleure des protections. Toutefois, dans certaines conditions, il est nécessaire de recourir à un soignant. C’est à ce stade qu’il convient d’être vigilant. Il ne suffit pas de se rendre auprès d’une personne qui se présente avec la qualité de cheikh ou d’imam pour accepter de lui confier cette pratique. Comme pour tout procédé et encore plus lorsque cela relève de considérations religieuses, il est important de bien choisir son soignant car ce dernier est tenu de posséder des qualités bien affirmées. La maîtrise du Coran et des traditions prophétiques en la matière est une condition sine qua none, mais insuffisante. 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Le fait de recourir trop systématiquement au fkih risque également de faire passer une crise d’épilepsie, par exemple, pour une crise de possession. » Nous allons aborder enfin la dernière problématique, celle relative aux honoraires du soignant. III- Les honoraires du soignant Le Prophète, bénédictions et salut sur lui, « a agréé les Compagnons qui ont été payés pour la roqya ». Il est dès lors autorisé de rémunérer un soignant en contrepartie d’une prestation. Toutefois, cette rémunération doit être raisonnable et surtout clairement définie avant le traitement. En outre, nous ne pouvons que souligner et rappeler que, si la roqya est réalisée dans un cadre sérieux, il convient de procéder à toutes les déclarations administratives. Comme pour tout contrat, vous devez exiger un document écrit et le praticien doit préciser quels sont ses engagements exacts afin d’éviter tout litige postérieur. Malheureusement, tous les témoignages transmis à l’UFCM soulignent que l’interlocuteur insiste à plusieurs reprises sur la gratuité de la prestation. Or, dans les faits, cette dernière est payante puisque le coût de la communication est surtaxé. Ainsi, l’une des victimes qui nous a contacté, s’est retrouvée avec une facture téléphonique (hors forfait) de 1800 euros. Par conséquent, nous constatons que ces « roqyas » gratuites sont fondées sur la technique dite du « call-back » qui consiste à amener une personne à rappeler un numéro surtaxé, information qui lui est bien évidemment dissimulée. Une « roqya » peut être payante à condition de respecter un cadre prédéterminé, fondé sur l’information et la transparence des honoraires. 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